Fiebing's Black Acrylic Resolene
About Fiebing's Dyes, Finishes & CleanersAbout Leather dyeing:Preliminary cleaning: Leather, in order to accept any dye uniformly, must be thoroughly clean from grease (fingerprints), wax and other top finishes. We recommend Dye preparer or Deglazer.Applying the dye:Allow plenty of arm room so you can work reasonably fast.
Use a woolskin dauber as your applicator. Apply the dye in broad strokes, covering as large an area as possible with each stroke to prevent streaking.
Don't dab it on. If streaks remain, or if you have missed spots, repeat the above procedure over the complete area.
Don't attempt to 'touch up' spots. An over-all second coat of dye will usually result in deeper color tones.
And it is worth repeating that streaks resulting from dirt or grease will not disappear with a second coat. When the dye has dried, excess surface dye should be removed by rubbing with a soft cloth or woolskin. This will also brighten the color. Black dyes may tend to rub off even after wiping until a finishing coat is applied.
See 'About Finishes' for further information regarding these products. About Leather Finishes:After leather has received its basic surface and edge color, there remains a choice of finishes for various effects. The result of your efforts to achieve the finish you desire are directly related to your patience and care. All finishes require strict attention to detail because they are usually very subtle when they're correct.Wax Finishes:Leather Balm with Atom Wax:, a liquid wax preparation wiped on with a cloth, allowed to set for 3 to 5 minutes, and then buffed lightly with a soft cloth, woolskin or brush. A rich, soft, velvety luster.Leather Sheen: imparts a shine on smooth leather goods with a flexible wax finish with easy aerosol application.Antique Finish: imparts a soft, rich, two-tone translucence that is almost dimensional in effect. Applied by wiping in circular motion removing excess immediately, clearing the raised portions and leaving the accumulation of paste in perforations and depressed areas.
Antique Finish is not entirely waterproof and should be protected with an additional wax or resin coating such as Resolene.Lacquer Finishes:A good lacquer finish imparts a protective clear top coating that remains pliable enough to insure against cracking and should not discolor the underfinish or the leather itself.Saddle Lac: A soft pliable lacquer conveniently applied by aerosol can. Saddle Lac is not intended as an element of design, tone, or color, but rather as an invisible preservative of the color, tone, or luster previously applied.Neat Lac: A liquid form lacquer finish.Resin Finishes:For a leather piece that will not be subjected to excessive wear or handling, some resin-type finishes will be found more satisfactory than the leather lacquers. Easier to apply and easier to remove (in the event a change in color or finish is desired) they nevertheless act in most cases as satisfactory preservative. Unlike the lacquer finishes which do not alter the underlying color or finish, the resins will impart a characteristic soft, satiny appearance which many leather craftsmen consider rich and desirable.Tan Kote: for a mellow, satin soft finish.Bag Kote: for a high luster finish.Acrylic Resolene: A flexible, durable water-repellant surface coating for dyed, antiqued or polished leathers.
So, I decided to use Acrylic Resolene from Tandy as a top coat on some custom work. I have been using Leather Sheen.I dyed the pieces made of 5oz vegtan (they go to a purse) with 35% Fiebings Medium Brown spirit dye and 65% denatured alcohol and they looked ok. When I applied the resolene (after 24 hours of drying) it mottled the color - splotches, light areas, yuck.
Ruined the pieces and I had to start over. It also turned the back of a matching belt an olive green color. I ended up painting the back of the belt with acrylic paint and spraying it with a clear craft finish. Thank God I didnt do the topside of the belt first, 57' x 1.5' belt leather is expensive.It even messed with the color density of some USMC black pieces I did for a different project.Anyone else get this result? Is this somehow a defective batch or does resolene have something against spirit dyes? How are you applying it? Browns used to be quite frustrating for me.
If I'm concerned about the consistency of the color and using resolene, I'll airbrush it with my cheap harbor freight airbrush kit.I've been using Leather Sheen mixed about 50/50 with water. I wanted to get the Angelus finish but it could not be shipped in the winter. I went to Tandy and the only other thing they had besides resolene was the Leather Sheen. I himmed and hawed a bit, they said it was not as glossy as the resolene, but the kicker was when they told me that they like how fast it dried.
This is exactly what I wanted. I've been very pleased with the relusts. BTW, I dip mine.I'm glad to be away from resolene. Even when applied in thin coats it was still far to tacky for me and seemed to require much more drying time. Sometimes it would take a week for the tackiness to go away, or I would end up shipping it still a bit tacky which I did not like. I use it occassionaly now.
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Resolene Alternative
If I want more of a glossy finish I will airbrush some on after my standard procedure.I'm about ready for more, and wondering if I should go back to the original plan and get the Angelus, or stick with what is working for me. How are you applying it? Browns used to be quite frustrating for me. If I'm concerned about the consistency of the color and using resolene, I'll airbrush it with my cheap harbor freight airbrush kit.I've been using Leather Sheen mixed about 50/50 with water. I wanted to get the Angelus finish but it could not be shipped in the winter. I went to Tandy and the only other thing they had besides resolene was the Leather Sheen. I himmed and hawed a bit, they said it was not as glossy as the resolene, but the kicker was when they told me that they like how fast it dried.
This is exactly what I wanted. I've been very pleased with the relusts. BTW, I dip mine.I'm glad to be away from resolene.
Even when applied in thin coats it was still far to tacky for me and seemed to require much more drying time. Sometimes it would take a week for the tackiness to go away, or I would end up shipping it still a bit tacky which I did not like. I use it occassionaly now. If I want more of a glossy finish I will airbrush some on after my standard procedure.I'm about ready for more, and wondering if I should go back to the original plan and get the Angelus, or stick with what is working for me.I've tried a number of ways of application. My friend and mentor initially told me to use a wool dauber and that put way too much on the piece.
I couldnt control the foaming action and it some completely saturated the piece that there was no telling what would happen to the color. Mottled is a nice term, it even turned the top a bit green. So i shifted to a small make-up sponge.
That cut down dramatically on the saturation, but it still messed with the color. I had some success with using a craft paint brush in terms of control, but that turned the back of my belt quite green and I had to paint acrylic over it.As you suggest, I'm beginning to think my issue is just with the brown spirit dyes. As I think about it, I've mostly used Tan, Mahogany, Black, and Ox Blood up until now.
These definitely behave differently than the Fiebings brown series (light, medium, dark). Maybe it isnt technique so much as a different chemical behavior in this color set.I've been very pleased with Leather Sheen, I've worn the armor that is in my signature in the rain and the leather has been fine. LS does seem to have some tendency to crack in flexible areas, which is why I was looking into Resolene as a more flexible finish. I use the spray Leather Sheen and the biggest issue I have is sometimes it gunks in the nozzle and a big glob comes spraying out. If I'm quick I can recover and wipe off the piece, but if not the piece is ruined. So, I decided to use Acrylic Resolene from Tandy as a top coat on some custom work. I have been using Leather Sheen.I dyed the pieces made of 5oz vegtan (they go to a purse) with 35% Fiebings Medium Brown spirit dye and 65% denatured alcohol and they looked ok.
When I applied the resolene (after 24 hours of drying) it mottled the color - splotches, light areas, yuck. Ruined the pieces and I had to start over. It also turned the back of a matching belt an olive green color. I ended up painting the back of the belt with acrylic paint and spraying it with a clear craft finish. Thank God I didnt do the topside of the belt first, 57' x 1.5' belt leather is expensive.It even messed with the color density of some USMC black pieces I did for a different project.Anyone else get this result?
Where To Buy Resolene
Is this somehow a defective batch or does resolene have something against spirit dyes?FWIW from a grumpy old man: My normal finish for years (40+?) is a 50/50 mix of 'Mop and Glow' and water, misted on warm leather with an airbrush. I allow a first coat to absorb and dry, then add a second.
Fiebings Resolene Vs Leather Sheen
I emphasize MIST ON. I finish with a light coat of neutral Kiwi shoe polish worked in with my fingers (no rag, applicator etc.) Buff to a mellow sheen. It has worked great on holsters for all this time.
Mike Edited May 17, 2011 by katsass. Never had a problem with molting, but recently I have been having an issue with it rubbing off when airbrushed on. I'm starting to think that it hits the leather too dry and does not 'soak' in when airbrushed.
Thinking of switching to katsass's Mop-n-glow mix or the 1:1:1 mix of beeswax, neetsfoot, and parafin wax. May try the leather sheen as dipping seems a heck of a lot easier, faster and more consistant than brushing or spraying and BigRiverLeather has always had a nice finish look to his holsters.
Too many options and not enough time to try them all.